My trip to Portugal was actually quite spontaneous. My mother wanted us to have one last vacation together before I entered the real word with a full time job. Originally we were supposed to go to Maine and travel up the eastern seabored, but for about the same price we could travel to Portugal, a place that has paradoxically been on both mine
and my mother’s bucket list. So we set our sights for Lisbon for mid July with a recpit in Alagrave for a few days.
After flying overnight and sleeping about an hour and half we arrived in Lisbon around 9a.m., giving us the entire day to fight jet laga and sleep deprevation. We covered almost every inch of the eastern city. We explored Baxia, got lost in the streets of Alfama and explored San Jorge Castle. Alfama is a must when visiting Lisbon. Tram 28 takes you through the old streets that are the only part of Lisbon preserved from the 1755 Earthquake. Once the sun went down, Lisbon came to life. The temperature dropped from a balmy 90 degrees to a crisp 65. Locals flooded the allies either going on an evening run or sipping some sparkling sangria along the Tagus river.
You know I couldn’t pass up close to southern Spain sangria with a view so we stopped and polished off a pitcher while watching the sunset backlight Lisbon’s version of the Golden Gate bridge. Then we wandered our way over to TimeOut eatery, which is a converted warehouse lined with restaurant stands and general seating. It reminded me a lot of Eataly in New York. There we grazed our way across about five restaurants and met with some nice locals along the way.
After a night in Lisbon, my mother and I headed for Algarve, the Atlantic coast of Portugal. It’s about a three hour bus ride from Lisbon. We stayed in Albufeira, which is centrally located but unfortunately attracts euro-trash. On our first day we traveled to Lagos, the old capital of Algarve, and Cape Saint Vincent, the southwestern most point of Europe. Lagos was picturesque with caves that all tourists see if you Google Portugal. Cape Saint Vincent was the birthplace of Prince Henry’s School of Navigation. Prince Henry was the first navigator to discover a new content outside of Europe (Africa) and develop a school for discovery, his successors include Megelen and Vasco De Gama. Here is where you can also get “the last hotdog before America,” obviously my patriotic duty was to get the hotdog and take a selfie.
Our second day in Algarve was spent exploring the caves. We cruised in a 40 foot catamaran along the Portugal coastline admiring the natural crevases the water created over time. I kid you not when I say the only reason we came to Algarve was to see the Benagil Sea Cave. Quick synopsis: the cave the cool, but not the highlight of the trip I dreamt it would be. One downside of Algarve, I will say is that since it’s tourist central (particularly for the Brits) the food is less than lackluster. One day I literally had a cup of coffee, a bowl of fruit, sangria and a handful of olives FOR THE WHOLE DAY. That’s how horrible the food was, it was like I was stuck in an amusement park and forced to order overpriced chicken fingers.
My mother and I were anxious to return to the paradoxically sunny, crisply cool July mornings of Lisbon so we borded an early bus back into Lisbon. Our plan was to travel to the west side of the city to Belem, an area untouched by the earthquake that is noted for its gothic churches and restaurants making dishes that haven’t been altered in 200 years. However our plans never came to fruition at the hands of my poor navigation skills. Our last accommodation was an Air BnB in barrio alto, the restaurant/bar area of Lisbon that is clandestinely a hilly, cobble-stoned labrhynth. Stupidly we took the metro since we were told our appartment was just a “5 minute walk” from the metro station, easy enough. WRONG. First, I’m notorious for my poor sense of direction. Second, I have no way of contacting our host because my phone only works when in wifi. Third, I only know one word in Portugese and that word is thank you. An HOUR, three stops for directions, two outfits dripping in sweat and one peeved mother later, we found our destination. I actually didn’t mind getting lost amid the terracota roofs and colorful alley ways, however my mother with her bad siadica did mind. After we got settled we set out for an early dinner, which in Portugal is around 7:30p.m. As luck would have it, the restaurant we chose was closed so we popped into an artisen chocolate shop and asked for a new restaurant recommendation. The woman told us the restaurant where we wanted to eat has a second location that is open. My mother and I followed the directions given to us my the chocolatier and of course, we couldnt find it. What we did find was a restaurant packed with young locals and a line out the door. Obviously we joined the line indubiously expecting a great menu. The menu read only in Portuguese, which is normally a good sign that the restaurant is local, so we blindly ordered and took a seat. Once the food arrived, we understood why this restaurant was popular: it was cheap and fast. My mother and I ended up at the Portugeese equivalent of a crappy Panera Bread. The time was now 9:30p.m. And we still had yet to eat a real dinner so we wandered our way back to the barrio alto neighborhood and found that the quiet and quaint streets were now flooded with people drinking, eating and smoking in the street. Lesson learned: the best things are always closest to home. To put a cap on our inauspicious day, we ate at a tapas restaurant that was rather good but to our dismay ONLY ACCEPTED CASH. What did we have? About 10 euros in cash and a visa. You’re thinking, we’re screwed, right? The waiters had no issue what so ever, they accepted our apology and let us go without paying in full, no questions asked. I was amazed. That would NEVER fly in the Sates.
The next morning we returned to the tapas restaurant and paid our bill in full, plus an exorbant tip. Did you really think we would have just let the kind gesture lie? After the hatchet was buried, my mother and I shopped for family and friends and then caught a bus that would take us to Sintra, a UNESCO World Heritedge site about 30 minutes outside of Lisbon.
Sintra is known for the Pena Palace that is a mode-podge of various architectural influences including Moorish, Roman and Medevial creating a palace that looks like it brought Disneyland to Europe. What enhances this fantasy-like ambience is the weather in Sintra. Contrasting to the endless blue skies of Lisbon, Sintra is constantly a solid 10 degrees cooler amid lush vegetation and misting clouds that continuously roll into the town. This cultivation of elements makes you feel like you’ve entered a fairytale and a town that’s truly magical.
My mother and I learned our lesson the previous night and decided to dine in the barrio for our last night. In true Portugeese fashion we ate around 9:30p.m. and finished our meal with what else than a glass of 10-year-old Port. I only realized that Port is from PORTugal on our last night.
My favorite aspect of Lisbon was getting lost and miraculously falling into these truly majestic sites or cozy restaurants that I read about in passing but gave up on attempting to locate them. I might not care for sardines or octopus, both delecases of Portugal, but I fell in love with the relaxed but reluctant to change culture. Portugal is lively with tradition, whether it be a 200-year-old pastry recipe or the Fado music that plays in the clubs and restaurants at night, and undersold to the American public as a valued travel destination.